Herbaceous Perennials, Forbs, and Vines for a Thriving PNW Food Forest
Creating a thriving food forest involves more than just planting edible trees and shrubs. While not essential, incorporating native plants like herbaceous perennials, forbs, and vines can significantly enhance biodiversity and balance within the ecosystem. In fact, native plants often outperform others in a food forest setting, particularly in regions like the Pacific Northwest (PNW). This post will explore the best native plants for food forests in the PNW and explain why they are so effective. These plants are true multitaskers, providing ecological benefits such as enriching the soil, managing pests, and supporting local wildlife.
If you’re a gardener, permaculturist, or PNW resident looking to cultivate a food forest that thrives year after year, learning about the role of native plants is key. This guide will walk you through the importance of integrating native herbaceous perennials, forbs, and vines, and show you how to use them to create a resilient, productive landscape.
Understanding Food Forest Layers & Native Plant Contributions
A food forest mimics the natural layers of a forest ecosystem. Native plants contribute to all layers below the canopy, including ground covers, shrub layers, and climbing vines. Using herbaceous perennials, forbs, and vines strategically within these layers creates a seamless blend of edible crops and ecological harmony.
How do these native plants contribute? Here’s an overview:
- Habitat Creation: They provide food and shelter for pollinators, birds, and beneficial insects.
- Ecosystem Resilience: Native species promote diversity, which makes the overall system more robust in the face of environmental challenges.
- Nutrient Cycling: Many native plants act as dynamic accumulators, drawing deep nutrients up to the soil surface.
- Low Maintenance: Once established, native species generally require less attention, freeing up your time for other tasks.
Why the PNW is Perfect for Native Food Forests
The Pacific Northwest’s mild, wet winters and dry summers create a unique climate that native plants are perfectly adapted to. Unlike non-native species, PNW natives have evolved to thrive in its soils, handle its rainfall patterns, and flourish despite seasonal fluctuations in temperature. By incorporating these plants into your food forest, you’re working with nature rather than against it.
Why Native Plants Belong in a Food Forest
1. Adaptation to Local Conditions
Native plants already know how to handle the quirks of PNW life. They’ve spent hundreds (sometimes thousands) of years adapting to the region’s microclimates. This means they’re well-suited to thrive in local soils, rain patterns, and natural light conditions. Instead of forcing non-native crops to adapt, you’re letting your food forest work in harmony with existing conditions.
2. Wildlife & Pollinator Support
A thriving food forest isn’t just about feeding people; it’s also about creating a haven for wildlife. Native plants are perfectly positioned to attract local pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. For example, western columbine (Aquilegia formosa). Wildlife-friendly food forests support biodiversity, enhancing both productivity and ecological health. offers early spring nectar for pollinators when many other plants are still dormant.
3. Low-Maintenance & Resilient
Native species are not only built for the PNW climate but are also naturally more resilient to pests and diseases common to the area. This makes them low-maintenance. Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) and yarrow (Achillea millefolium) are examples of hardy natives that thrive with minimal irrigation or fertilization once established.
4. Ecological Balance
Native plants naturally coexist with the region’s ecosystems, reducing the risk of becoming invasive or outcompeting other plants. Instead of introducing more work to control unwanted spread or ecological imbalance, they preserve the harmony of your food forest.
How to Incorporate Native Plants into a Food Forest
Layering Natives Within a Food Forest
When designing your food forest, place native herbaceous perennials and forbs near tree guilds (groups of plants that mutually support one another). For example, plant nitrogen-fixing lupines under fruit trees to bolster soil fertility. Vines like native honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa) can climb trellises or tree trunks, maximizing vertical space.
Encouraging Natural Regeneration
Allow native plants to self-seed and take root naturally. This creates a sustainable system where plants can propagate themselves without intervention. Oregon sunshine (Eriophyllum lanatum) is an excellent example of a self-seeding perennial that fills gaps in the landscape naturally.
Native Plants for Key Food Forest Functions
Dynamic Accumulators
Plants like yarrow (Achillea millefolium) and checkermallow (Sidalcea spp.) draw nutrients from deep in the soil, enriching the top layer. These plants can be chopped and dropped as mulch for other food forest layers.
Pollinator Attractors
Enhance fruit and seed production with early and late bloomers like Pacific bleeding heart (Dicentra formosa) and native lupines.
Guardian Plants
Use plants like yarrow (Achillea millefolium) to deter pests naturally. The aromatic foliage of yarrow repels harmful insects, while its flowers attract predatory insects like ladybugs.
Nitrogen Fixers
Nitrogen-fixing plants like lupines improve soil health by adding essential nutrients. These species are excellent companions for fruit trees.
Herbaceous perennials, forbs, and vines of the PNW
Use this table as a reference to choose plants that support your food forest objectives. You can scroll to the right and use the search function to filter results. While we've included a comprehensive selection, there may be additional valuable plants not listed.| Common Name | Scientific Name | Companion Plant Role(s) | Bloom Time | Flower Color | Bloom Duration | Fragrant | Plant Height | Plant Width | Drought Tolerant | Sun/Shade Preference |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Big Leaf Lupine | Lupinus polyphyllus | Nitrogen Fixer | Late Spring to Early Summer | Purple, Blue | 1-2 months | No | 24-36 inches | 18-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun |
| Broadleaf / Arctic Lupine | Lupinus latifolius | Nitrogen Fixer | Late Spring to Early Summer | Purple, Blue, White | 1-2 months | No | 18-36 inches | 12-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun |
| Coast Penstemon | Penstemon serrulatus | Pollinator Attractor | Late Spring to Early Summer | Pink, Purple | 1-2 months | No | 12-24 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Davidson's Penstemon | Penstemon davidsonii | Pollinator Attractor | Spring | Pink, Purple | 1-2 months | No | 12-24 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Douglas Aster | Aster (Symphotrichum) subspicatus | Pollinator Attractor | Late Summer to Fall | Purple, Lavender | 2-3 months | No | 24-36 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Fireweed | Chamaenerion (Epilobium) angustifolium | Pollinator Attractor, Dynamic Accumulator | Summer to Fall | Pink, Purple | 1-2 months | No | 36-48 inches | 18-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Hairy Honeysuckle | Lonicera hispidula | Pollinator Attractor | Spring to Early Summer | Pink, Yellow | 1-2 months | Yes | 6-12 feet | 4-6 feet | No | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Harebell / Bluebells-of-Scotland | Campanula rotundifolia | Pollinator Attractor | Summer | Blue, Purple | 1-2 months | No | 12-18 inches | 6-12 inches | No | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Henderson's Checkermallow | Sidalcea hendersonii | Pollinator Attractor, Dynamic Accumulator | Late Spring to Summer | Pink, Lavender | 1-2 months | No | 24-36 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Nodding Onion | Allium cernuum | Guardian Plant (pest deterrent), Pollinator Attractor | Summer | Pink, White | 1-2 months | Yes | 12-18 inches | 6-12 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Pacific Aster | Aster (Symphotrichum) chilensis | Pollinator Attractor | Late Summer to Fall | Lavender, Purple | 2-3 months | No | 12-36 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Pacific Bleeding Heart | Dicentra formosa | Pollinator Attractor, Weed Suppressor | Spring to Early Summer | Pink, White | 1-2 months | Yes | 12-24 inches | 12-18 inches | No | Partial Shade |
| Puget Gumplant | Grindelia integrifolia | Guardian Plant (resin deters herbivores), Pollinator Attractor | Summer to Fall | Yellow | 2-3 months | Yes | 12-24 inches | 18-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Scarlet Gilia | Ipomopsis aggregata | Pollinator Attractor | Summer to Fall | Purple, Pink | 2-3 months | Yes | 24-36 inches | 18-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun |
| Showy Fleabane | Erigeron speciosus | Pollinator Attractor, Weed/Grass Suppressor | Spring to Summer | Pink, White | 1-2 months | Yes | 6-12 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Miner’s Lettuce | Claytonia sibirica | Weed Suppressor | Late Spring to Summer | White, Pink, Purple | 1-2 months | No | 12-24 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Coastal Mugwort | Artemisia suksdorfii | Guardian Plant (pest deterrent), Weed/Grass Suppressor | Spring | White, Pink | 1-2 months | No | 6-12 inches | 6-12 inches | No | Partial Shade |
| Trumpet Honeysuckle | Lonicera ciliosa | Pollinator Attractor | Late Summer to Fall | Yellow, Greenish | 2-3 months | No | 12-36 inches | 18-24 inches | Yes | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Western Columbine | Aquilegia formosa | Pollinator Attractor, Guardian Plant | Spring to Summer | Orange, Yellow | 1-2 months | Yes | 12-20 feet | 6-10 feet | No | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Wild Ginger | Asarum caudatum | Weed Suppressor | Spring to Early Summer | Red, Yellow | 1-2 months | Yes | 18-36 inches | 12-18 inches | Yes | Partial Shade |
| Yarrow | Achillea millefolium | Pollinator Attractor, Guardian Plant (pest deterrent), Dynamic Accumulator | Spring | Maroon, Purple | 1-2 months | Yes | 6-12 inches | 12-18 inches | No | Partial Shade |
A Word on Experimentation
There’s no one-size-fits-all solution for food forests, and experimentation is encouraged. By combining native plants strategically, you can discover unique combinations that enhance both productivity and biodiversity.
Where to Find Native Plants
If you’re inspired to start or expand your food forest with native plants, sourcing them from a reliable nursery is key. We recommend checking out Woodbrook Native Plant Nursery, Kitsap Conservation District, and Bainbridge Land Trust. These three specialize in species adapted to your area’s specific climate and ecosystem, often offering expert guidance on plant selection and care. For additional resources, you can also reach out to native plant societies or conservation organizations in your community. Supporting a local nursery not only ensures healthier plants for your food forest but also promotes local economic growth and ecological sustainability.
Growing Community, Growing Forests
Integrating native herbaceous perennials, forbs, and vines into your food forest strengthens not just your yields but also your ecosystem’s resilience. These plants reduce maintenance needs, uplift local wildlife, and harmonize perfectly with traditional food forest design.
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